Growing Tips

Orchid Growing Tips
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How to care for cattleyas

Cattleyas and related hybrids come in many colors, shapes, forms and sizes. Culture varies only slightly among most of these. Cattleyas are epiphytes, or air plants. They have developed water-storage organs, called pseudobulbs, and have large, fleshy roots covered with a spongy, water-retentive velamen.

Light is the most important factor in growing and flowering cattleyas, whether in a greenhouse or in the home. Bright light to some sun should be given to the plants, with no direct sun in the middle of the day. This means an east, shaded south (as with a sheer curtain) or west window in the home, and 50 to 70 percent full sun in a greenhouse.

Temperatures should be 55 to 60 F at night and 70 to 85 F during the day. Seedlings should have night temperatures five to 10 degrees higher. A 15- to 20-degree differential between day and night is recommended, especially for mature plants. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95 F), if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased.

Water should be provided in the pot by watering and in the air as humidity. Mature cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Seedlings need more constant moisture. Compare the weight of a dry pot of the same size and type of mix; it can indicate if a plant needs water by the relative weight — light means dry, heavy means wet. If in doubt, it’s best to wait a day or two until watering.

Fertilize on a regular schedule. In fir bark, we use a balanced fertilizer 8-8-8 or 8-10-8. We recommend "Grow N Thrive," and we will be happy to sell you some if you can’t find it locally. That’s what your orchid is used to getting in our greenhouse.
When in active growth, plants need fertilizer at least every two weeks, and when not actively growing, once a month. Fertilizer can also be applied with every watering at one-quarter the recommended dilution.
Re-potting is necessary when the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot or the potting medium starts to break down (usually after two to three years). Mature cattleyas are usually potted in coarser potting material than are seedlings.

How to care for paphs

Paphiopedilums are the Old World relatives of North American temperate zone lady slipper orchids, the cypripediums. Paphs are one of the best orchids for home growing, requiring only fairly bright light and normal home temperatures to provide some of the orchid kingdom’s longest-lasting and most exotic blooms. There are classically several general types of paphiopedilums requiring slightly different cultural regimes, though all should do well with the general care instructions given here. Slipper orchids can last eight to 10 weeks or more in bloom.
Provide moderate to bright indirect light, no direct sun. In the home, an east, west or shaded south window. In a greenhouse, about 30 percent full sun. Under lights, four 40 watt fluorescent tubes and two 40 watt incandescent bulbs directly over plants. Foliage should be naturally semi-erect, and firm, not drooping. Dark green, limp foliage indicates too little light.
Temperatures of 55 to 85 are best. They like a 10 to 15 degree change from day to night, but if not possible in the home, don’t worry too much about it.
Mature plants should never dry out between waterings. Seedlings need even more constant attention to moisture. Using low salt water, either distilled or reverse osmosis helps a lot. You can water with tap water or well water, but use distilled water about every third or fourth watering to flush away salts.
Fertilize with a weak (3-3-3 is ideal) well balanced liquid fertilizer every 10 days to two weeks. We use Grow N Thrive, an 8-10-8, but we dilute that by two thirds. It’s available in the retail section of our Web site.
We recommend repotting every year and this seems to give the plants a good boost.

How to care for phalaenopsis

Provide relatively bright light, but no direct sun. In the home, an east, west or shaded south window. In a greenhouse, about 30 percent full sun. Foliage should be naturally semierect, and of a medium olive-green.
Ideal temperatures are nights of 60 to 65 F; days of 75 to 85 F. Seedlings need temperatures five to 10 degrees higher than mature plants.
For watering, wait until almost dry, then water thoroughly.
We repeat for emphasis: wait until almost dry!
Do not let water sit in the crown of the leaves. This can produce crown rot. Use of distilled water once a month is a good idea to wash away salts.
For fertilizer, a good general rule is to use a balanced (10-10-10, 12-12-12 or similar ratio) fertilizer "weakly, weekly." That is, fertilize every week at one quarter to one half of the recommended dilution.
Repotting should be done every one to two years before the mix breaks down too far. Best done in late spring after main flowering season, using a well-drained but water-retentive mix of fir bark chips, available at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Select pot size for root mass, not top size.

How to care for oncidiums

Oncidiums, like the popular Sharry Baby chocolate orchid and Darkstar 'Darth Vader,' are an extraordinarily large and diverse New World genus with an equally diverse number of habitats. Oncidiums may originate anywhere from sea level in the tropics to the high elevations of the Andes.
For most of the more common oncidiums, however, we recommend the following:
Provide bright indirect light, don’t let them get completely dry, but don’t keep them sopping wet.
Fertilize with a weak, well balanced solution about once every two weeks. We recommend 10-10-10 or weaker.
Oncidium plants like temperatures of 55 to 85 degrees and can be grown indoors or outside in benign climates.
Repot them every other year in a standard orchid mix. They prefer plastic pots, and actually do better that way.
Mature plants often bloom twice a year and throw out multiple bloom spikes. These are among the easiest orchids to grow. Enjoy!

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